Thursday 29 August 2019

Churches in Rome to Escape the Crowds and Heat

School holidays restricted my Rome visit to August. The heat was tremendous and the crowds crushing. Both my children suffer health complaints. I was grateful for the churches in Rome. They are quiet, peaceful places where you can take a minute to admire the beautiful frescos and friezes.
Here are some of the churches that I visited in central Rome. Sadly, I didn’t have time to see all.
A page to each church via links give further details.



Basillica di Santa Maria Maggiore Rome
This grand church is located in the Piazza Del ‘Esquilino and is the largest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The great sculptor Bernini is buried there.
Read more about the Santa Maria Maggiore here.


Santa Maria Maggiore's grand interior

Church of The Gesu, Rome
This baroque church is located near the Piazza Venezia and is the mother church of the Jesuits. Its founder, St Ignatius Loyola, is buried beneath the great altar.
Read more about the Gesu here.


High altar of the Gesu

Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola in Campo Marzio Rome
This church is named after the Spanish soldier who founded the Jesuit movement. It can be found in the Via del Caravita.
Read more about Sant' Ignazio di Loyola here.


Altar within St Ignazio

Church of San Luigi Dei Francesi, Rome
Find this church in the Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi, not far from the Pantheon. It is the national church of France in Rome and houses art by Caravaggio.
Read more about San Luigi Dei Francesi here.


Sombre altar of San Luigi Dei Francesi

Church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone
Found in the Piazza Navona, this church is renowned for its elaborate classical concerts. St Agnes, whom this church is named after, was martyred within the square at the age of only 13.

Read about the Church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone here.

St Agnese in Agone (W Commons)
Parrocchia Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli Rome
This church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, can be found in the Piazza Campitelli.
Read more about Santa Maria in Portico here.


Coppola of the Santa Maria in Portico
Basillica di Sant' Andrea della Valle Rome
This church is close to the Vittorio Emanuele building. Known also as the Church of St Andrew of the Valley.
Read more about Sant' Andrea della Valle here.


Ceiling frescoes of the Sant' Andrea della Valle

The Church of San Marcello al Corso, Rome
This titular church dedicated to Pope Marcellus, nestles within the Via del Corso in its own little Piazza.
Read more about San Marcello al Corso here.


The Glowing altar of San Marcello al Corso

Most of these churches have superb ceiling frescos, high altars and chapels housing works by such artists as the students of Bernini, Le Gros, Ludovisi, Rossi, Raggi and even Caravaggio.

I didn’t get to see the following churches but wish I had

San Giovanni in Laterano
The seat of the pope as the Bishop of Rome, this church is a few years older than St Peter’s. Both basilicas were built by the first Christian Emperor, Constantine in the fourth century.
The Lateral Palace was the abode of popes for 1000 years until moving to Avignon, then the Vatican.
The church has suffered looting and damage over the years. But its present grandness is underscored with giant statures of Jesus, John the Baptist and the apostles by Borromini. Outside is the tallest obelisk in the world, at 102 feet.

San Paolo Fuori le Mura
St Paul’s basilica is the largest in Rome (bar St Peter’s). Built by Constantine, it was destroyed by fire, but restored in the mid 18th century. Admire the huge Byzantine doors dating from the 11th century. The high altar is said to be the resting place of St Paul the apostle after being beheaded. Admire the Benedictine cloister by Vassalletto and the elegant columns enclosing a garden.

San Clemente
This church hides a fascinating history. It dates from the 12th century with 3 naves divided by columns and pavement of geometric mosaic designs. View the Tree of Life mosaic in the apse. A 4th century basilica can be found down a staircase where Romanesque frescoes can be found. An even deeper staircase leads to chambers believed to be where St Clemente lived. He was martyred by Hadrian in 88AD. An earlier pagan temple exists on the site.

San Petro in Vincoli
Near Piazza Cavour, this church was founded in the 5th century on the site of where St Peter was tried and sentenced. Michelangelo’s greatest sculptures, Moses, are housed here. It was intended for St Peter’s basilica, being one of 40 figures to adorn a tomb. But the then emperor Julius II decided Michelangelo should paint the Sistine Chapel instead. On each side, find sculptures of Rachel and Leah.

Reference: Berlitz Pocket Guide to Rome (2016)
Church publications