Friday 30 August 2019

Church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone

This 17th century Baroque church can be found in the Piazza Navona.
Little is known of St Agnes, whom the church was dedicated. But she was martyred on a pyre by Emperor Diocletian who persecuted Christians. She was aged only 12 or 13. Daughter of Emperors Constantine, Constance had the church erected in her name. Borromini deigned the facade.
Take a look at the beautiful ceiling frescoes by P Gismaondi and Cozza, as well as reliefs by Rossi, Raggi Ferrata, and Guidi. But the cupola by Gaulli steals the show.


The church has regular concerts of chamber and classical music.
Photographs aren't allowed on the day, hence the following photos have been taken from other sources.


Facade of Sant' Agnese in Agone in the Piazza Novona (W Commons)

Statue of St Agnese (W Commons)

Piazza Novona where St Agnese was martyred

The Church of San Marcello al Corso, Rome

This church is set back from the Via del Corso in the Piazza San Marcello.
A lovely intimate church, with beautiful artwork, this titular church was dedicated to Pope Marcellus I. It is said that Pope Marcellus I was imprisoned on the site.


A titular church by the way is a Roman church ascribed to a cardinal or priest. Often these churches were named after the owner or donor appointed by the church. Before Christianity was legalised in Rome, these churches were private buildings. The church was destroyed by fire in 1519.
Admire the reliefs and paintings by artists including Cavallini, Ferrata, Raggi, Ricci, De Rossi and others.
When I visited this church, a concert was to be held that evening. I wished I could have seen it.

Other Roman churches to visit

Altar of San Marcello in Rome

Crucifix in San Marcello al Corso, Rome

Facade of the Church of San Marcello

Looking towards the altar of San Marcello

Basillica di Sant ‘Andrea della Valle Rome

Also known as the Church of St Andrew of the Valley, this church is a minor basilica in Rione of Sant'Eustachio.
This church can be found in the Piazza Vidoni at the intersection of the Vittorio Emanuele (facing facade) and Corso Rinascimento.


The fresco decoration of Sant’ Andrea’s lavish dome was completed by two artists: Giovanni Lanfranco and Domenichino and which set the standard for such decorations in the future. Within the chapels find statues of Rachel and Leah, depictions of the Pieta and the Madonna.
Within, admire friezes and sculptures by Fontana, Raggi (a mentor of Bernini) and Strozzi.

Ceiling frescoes in the Church of St Andrew of the Valley

Painting in the chapel of Sant' Andrew della Valle

Cupola within the Church of St Andrew, Rome

Facade of the Church of St Andrew of the Valley, Rome

Painting within the chapel of St Andrew of the Valley

Floor plan of the Basillica of St Andrew of the Valley

Parrocchia Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli Rome

To be found in the Piazza Campitelli, this church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the 4th century by Pope Liberius.


The altar depicts a gilded glory of angels with a play of light. Behind this ‘gloria’ is a staircase permitting a better view (open by request).
Admire works by Ottoni, Pettrich, Giordano and Baratta.


Cupola in Santa Maria in Portico Rome

Facade of the Santa Maria in Portico

Chapel within Santa Maria in Portico

Painting in the chapel of the Santa Maria in Portico

Christ installation within the Santa Maria in Portico, Rome


Church of San Luigi Dei Francesi, Rome

Located in the Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi between the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona.
The church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, St. Denis the Areopagite and St. Louis IX (king of France). Built between 1518 and 1589. It is the national church in Rome of France and its Saint’s day is Aug 25.


Admire the lovely ceiling fresco by the Rococo artist Charles-Joseph Natoire as well as works by Franscesco Bassamo the Younger and Cesare.
Most of all, look out for Caravaggio’s paintings in St Matthews chapel.




St Matthew and the Angel by Caravaggio

The Martyrdom of St Matthew by Caravaggio

Ceiling fresco by Charles-Joseph Natiore

Cupola in San Luigi dei Francesi

Chapel in San Luigi dei Francesi

Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola in Campo Marzio Rome

This church is also known as the Church of St Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius, and which is found in the Via del Caravita. It is as titular church dedicated to Sant’ Ignazio who founded the Society of Jesus and the Roman College.


It has a superb ceiling fresco dedicated to St Ignatius going to paradise in Fra Andrea Pozzo’s trompe l'Å“il style, (meaning a three-dimensional effect). Reuben’s influence can be seen here. A mirror has been angled in the church in order to view the ceiling frescoes without straining the neck.
The celestial dome above the Baroque altar mesmerizes with odd effects.
Admire works also by Le Gros, Bracci and Ludovisi (a student of Bernini). The church is known for its elaborate nativities.



Andrea Pozzo fresco in St Ignatius

Chapel in St Ignatius

Display in St Ignatius Church Rome

Frieze in St Ignatuis

Painting in St Ignatius Church

Frescoes in St Ignatius by Andrea Pozzo

Facade of St Ignatius Church Rome

St Ignatius of Loyola altar frescoes by Andrea Pozzo

Chapel for confessions in St Ignatius

Church of The Gesu, Rome

To be found to the west of the Piazza Venezia this church has its own little piazza in the Via degli Astalli. The facade is Baroque style, more austere than the neighbouring churches.
It is the mother church of the Jesuits (the Society of Jesus), a movement founded by St Ignatuis Loyola, a Spanish soldier, now buried beneath the great altar. After forming the headquarters of Rome in the 15th century, this church became the model of other Jesuit churches throughout the world. Jesuit scholars reside in the Gregorian University in the adjacent piazza in preparation for ordination to the priesthood.


The ceiling is adorned by Baciccia’s Glory of the Mystical Lamb.
Admire further works by Celio, Zuccari and Vacca.



Painting at the Gesu

The Gesu facade

Steps to the Gesu

The Gesu Cupola

The Gesu ceiling fresco

High altar of the Gesu

Painting of the Gesu

Basillica di Santa Maria Maggiore Rome

Known also as Our Lady of the Snows.
A grand basilica facing the Piazza dell ‘Esquilino, this church was founded in 432AD by Pope Liberius and completed under Pope Sixtus III. It is the biggest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary and where the great architect Bernini is buried.


Above the 40 columns in the interior, find friezes portraying the Old Testament leading to the coming of Christ. Behind the high altar, find a magnificent portrayal of Jesus and Mary. Don’t forget to look up. The ceiling is decorated with a magnificent fresco by Guiliano da San Gallo.
Look for the Cappela Paoline (Pauline Chapel) showing a 9th century painting of Madonna and child. On the 5th of August, the altar is showered with white petals to celebrate Liberuis’ vision of the Virgin Mary, a day of when snow fell on Rome.

Other Churches to visit in central Rome


Read all my articles on Rome on my Rome a Survival Kit

Santa Maria Maggoire ceiling fresco
Chapel in Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria Maggiore cupola

Grand hallway within Santa Maria Maggiore

Facade of the Santa Maria Maggiore

Thursday 29 August 2019

Churches in Rome to Escape the Crowds and Heat

School holidays restricted my Rome visit to August. The heat was tremendous and the crowds crushing. Both my children suffer health complaints. I was grateful for the churches in Rome. They are quiet, peaceful places where you can take a minute to admire the beautiful frescos and friezes.
Here are some of the churches that I visited in central Rome. Sadly, I didn’t have time to see all.
A page to each church via links give further details.



Basillica di Santa Maria Maggiore Rome
This grand church is located in the Piazza Del ‘Esquilino and is the largest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The great sculptor Bernini is buried there.
Read more about the Santa Maria Maggiore here.


Santa Maria Maggiore's grand interior

Church of The Gesu, Rome
This baroque church is located near the Piazza Venezia and is the mother church of the Jesuits. Its founder, St Ignatius Loyola, is buried beneath the great altar.
Read more about the Gesu here.


High altar of the Gesu

Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola in Campo Marzio Rome
This church is named after the Spanish soldier who founded the Jesuit movement. It can be found in the Via del Caravita.
Read more about Sant' Ignazio di Loyola here.


Altar within St Ignazio

Church of San Luigi Dei Francesi, Rome
Find this church in the Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi, not far from the Pantheon. It is the national church of France in Rome and houses art by Caravaggio.
Read more about San Luigi Dei Francesi here.


Sombre altar of San Luigi Dei Francesi

Church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone
Found in the Piazza Navona, this church is renowned for its elaborate classical concerts. St Agnes, whom this church is named after, was martyred within the square at the age of only 13.

Read about the Church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone here.

St Agnese in Agone (W Commons)
Parrocchia Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli Rome
This church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, can be found in the Piazza Campitelli.
Read more about Santa Maria in Portico here.


Coppola of the Santa Maria in Portico
Basillica di Sant' Andrea della Valle Rome
This church is close to the Vittorio Emanuele building. Known also as the Church of St Andrew of the Valley.
Read more about Sant' Andrea della Valle here.


Ceiling frescoes of the Sant' Andrea della Valle

The Church of San Marcello al Corso, Rome
This titular church dedicated to Pope Marcellus, nestles within the Via del Corso in its own little Piazza.
Read more about San Marcello al Corso here.


The Glowing altar of San Marcello al Corso

Most of these churches have superb ceiling frescos, high altars and chapels housing works by such artists as the students of Bernini, Le Gros, Ludovisi, Rossi, Raggi and even Caravaggio.

I didn’t get to see the following churches but wish I had

San Giovanni in Laterano
The seat of the pope as the Bishop of Rome, this church is a few years older than St Peter’s. Both basilicas were built by the first Christian Emperor, Constantine in the fourth century.
The Lateral Palace was the abode of popes for 1000 years until moving to Avignon, then the Vatican.
The church has suffered looting and damage over the years. But its present grandness is underscored with giant statures of Jesus, John the Baptist and the apostles by Borromini. Outside is the tallest obelisk in the world, at 102 feet.

San Paolo Fuori le Mura
St Paul’s basilica is the largest in Rome (bar St Peter’s). Built by Constantine, it was destroyed by fire, but restored in the mid 18th century. Admire the huge Byzantine doors dating from the 11th century. The high altar is said to be the resting place of St Paul the apostle after being beheaded. Admire the Benedictine cloister by Vassalletto and the elegant columns enclosing a garden.

San Clemente
This church hides a fascinating history. It dates from the 12th century with 3 naves divided by columns and pavement of geometric mosaic designs. View the Tree of Life mosaic in the apse. A 4th century basilica can be found down a staircase where Romanesque frescoes can be found. An even deeper staircase leads to chambers believed to be where St Clemente lived. He was martyred by Hadrian in 88AD. An earlier pagan temple exists on the site.

San Petro in Vincoli
Near Piazza Cavour, this church was founded in the 5th century on the site of where St Peter was tried and sentenced. Michelangelo’s greatest sculptures, Moses, are housed here. It was intended for St Peter’s basilica, being one of 40 figures to adorn a tomb. But the then emperor Julius II decided Michelangelo should paint the Sistine Chapel instead. On each side, find sculptures of Rachel and Leah.

Reference: Berlitz Pocket Guide to Rome (2016)
Church publications